Cette structure a été lancée en juin , et se compose des membres suivants: Photo illustrates X axis and Y axis improved tensioners So in my experience, these two printed upgrades had the biggest influence on my print quality when I started. Note that the colors of the Zeta Pulse Rifle in this image are slightly different than they are in the book.
T corners are one of the most printed upgrades. These corners will make your frameless wobbly and more firm. I also noticed the reduction in vibration. A front brace by Leo does not require too much filament opposed to the others and it fits perfectly. Gave my printer quite a lot of stiffness.
Though personally my most favorite printed upgrades, I left them for the end of this part, since I still believe these upgrades can improve. So in my experience, these two printed upgrades had the biggest influence on my print quality when I started. This is mostly because I had no idea that the belts should be quite tight since the A8 Assembly Video did not go through that in much detail. There are cons of each of these. First of all, I noticed that the X belt improved tensioner puts a bit more pressure on a steel rod and if you over-tighten it, it can move it in the opposite direction.
I would rather if the tension pressure was elsewhere and not on the rod itself. Secondly, I noticed that the Y tensioner vibrates just slightly and causes additional noise. Also when put directly the screw it uses can scratch the acrylics. Despite the cons, both upgrades worked well for me, but I hope somebody will listen to the feedback and remix and improve them further since they are essential modifications. Be aware that I tested these with my rubberized belt which allows much better stretching compared to the plastic belts which arrived with A8.
Over-tightening the plastic belts may cause them to snap. So my the advice is to buy better belts, then try belt upgrades. I yet have to try these tensioners with a eBay link fiber-glass reinforced belt I ordered. Since I moved to printing on a Anet A8 glass bed, I decided to permanently modify my heat bed. I really hate the way the bed has to be adjusted with a screw.
So by printing wingnuts, you can modify it permanently. Furthermore, this adjustment allows me to use the full width of the glass bed x , since I no longer need access to the screws. Here are two heated bed upgrades to print.
Since printed wing nuts will wear and tear over the time since they are plastic, I decided to order metal thumb wheel. You can get them on this link. Additionally, you can purchase an Anet A8 hotbed replacement here.
While the upgrades you can print with Anet A8 offer a good base for improving your 3D printer, there are Anet A8 parts you need to purchase in order to enhance the performance. If there is one part that I tested extensively, that has to be the belt.
I tried three types of belts for A Also, they are quite cost-effective, since they are 5 times less expensive compared to the eBay link fiberglass reinforced belts which are quite hard to find anyway.
But after finally buying a fiber-glass reinforced belt, I must admit these ones are the best I tried so far. They are quite firm. My prints simply looked better when I installed these. The only downside is that I was having trouble finding them online. You might want to hurry up and get yours on time, who knows when they will run it out of stock.
Even though I did not experience any problems with my connectors on a motherboard burning or anything similar, some people have. This is one of the preventive measures to make electronics on your A8 more secure. I am really not an expert in electronics, but plenty of people say this is an essential upgrade which will make your 3d printer safer. I am still waiting for mine, and once I upgrade my printer, I will write a separate article on how to connect a mosfet.
Detailed instructions on and how to guide can be found on this Wiki Page created by Anet community. According to the Anet community, you should upgrade to e3D V6 hotend , once you mastered other things. It takes a little time, but if you really want to get serious with your printing quality, replacing existing A8 hotend, with high-quality e3D V6 makes a huge difference in printing quality and speed as well as the versatility of materials you can use.
I partly agree with this statement. Like with a hotend, E3D Titan extruder enables you to print wide variety of materials without clogging. The Titan Extruder preforms leaps and bounds better than the Anet A8 extruder. For now, I did not try this extruder, as currently I have no need to print anything else but the PLA. Once I master my A8, I might test the Titan. As promised earlier, I have upgraded my heatbed by putting x x 3 mm thick glass on top of it. If you intend to still level your heat bed with a screw, you should get a slightly smaller glass and these clips to hold it better.
On my printer, I have x size glass with slightly drilled and extended holes, glass angle holders, and printed wingnuts. Personally, I have noticed visible improvements in printing quality of the first layer. Not only is the first layer much smoother on a glass, but the glass bed is way easier to maintain.
I usually clean it with acetone after few prints. While I had to replace yellow tape every now and then, the glass is here to last. In the end, glass is a more cost-effective option. Models are slightly harder to remove from the glass than the yellow tape. Also, I have noticed an improvement in object sticking better to the glass. I print all my larger models with brim Brim Adhesion in Cura 2. The only downside of printing on a glass opposed to a yellow tape, is that the heat-bed takes a little bit more time to heat.
Anet A8 is one noisy fella. Luckily , thanks to magnificent bearings from Ignus, it can be much quieter. Check out the test here. I am amazed with how well these things are working on my printer. I was ignorant to buy only 4, so I replaced only under the heatbed. You will need 7 of those. Here is an installation video of the Anet A8 bearing upgrades. The process is fairly easy, especially if you have a ring plier tool.
Like it or not, like most of the 3D printers A8 requires regular maintenance. Below list includes some of my favorites, but yet cost-effective 3D printing materials for my A8. Be aware that what might work for me, might not be the best option for you, due to differences in our setups. Some users believe that the stock Anet A8 power supply unit PSU is underpowered and have opted to upgrade to the eTopxizu 12v 30a Anet A8 power supply.
Purchase the upgraded Anet A8 power supply here. As you can see, printed or bought, there are plenty of modification which will help you improve Anet A8. Once again the community behind this printer is enormous and the upgrades are evolving each day. Each and every day someone from the community prints something new designs something new. The list is not definite.
Due to my inability to test each and every upgrade, I would like to ask you for help. If you are using particular printed part or you bought something that works well for you — leave a comment below and help me and other readers improve our printer.
Which upgrade do you find the most useful and why? Feel free to leave a link, but it would be good if you can elaborate in which way particular upgrade helped you make better prints or secured your printer. Nice Articles about the A8. Looking forward for your comparison between the original e3D V6 and the cheap one. Thanks a lot Julian, ordered both few days ago, so it will take a while for them to arrive and me to test them.
Quite curios about the performance of both as well. Any update on this test? Dont like your Y belt tensioner. The one below is better in my opinion. Great article for people researching the A8. I just got mine last week and it has been putting out great prints so far. Yea, thanks for the great article and for taking the time to write it for us. I ordered a clone and would like to know how much better the real v6 is. What is the size of your glass bed then? You wrote 3m, is that a type of glass or something?
How many fiberglass belts did we need to order? I ordered 2 as I figured there is an x and y belt tensioner. My Anet a8 is in the mail. A8 has direct extruder, so if you are going to convert to Bowden, there are modifications to be made. My mosfet got lost in the mail… So yup, I am waiting for a new one, ordered it few days ago, and will do the post. You can find great piece of info on a Wiki. I mounted a 80mm cooling fan from a PC onto my power supply.
Autolevelling, while advanced, is an amazing upgrade. Unless your printer is bolted to a very sturdy table, you will have to level ever time it is moved even slightly. Autolevel is a tremendous time saver. I also have a cheap clone E3D hot end on order. I plan to use the Bowden setup as reducing the weight of the hotend as low as possible is what gives the best print results. I found this belt on gearbest: It is the same or works like the one, which is in the article the fiberglass one?
As I said, for me glass worked best. I have done the auto level. Glass is the best to print on yet the sensor I purchased does not work on glass. So I ordered a new sensor and will install it when it arrives. I love using glass and hairspray. I have done most all of the upgrades you list. I switched to Bowden and got the weight off the X Carriage. Thinking about the auto-leveling but I like printing on Glass…have both inductive and Capacitive sensors — but have not installed yet.
Kind of wondering about dual extruders on the A8…. I have not used any other methods, so my sample size is 1. Will 2 meter of driving belt be enough? Waiting for printer but trying to buy spare Part from now since most are from china which take way to much to arrive.
There is a very little mentioned upgrade that works a treat in noise reduction and helps printing precission. For dome reaon they work well on the Y axis belt but not so well on the X axis were they have a tendancy to break. Very nice article on the ANET, thank you. Concerning the frame stiffness after many researchs on the web I ended designing my own version which is very very simple and adds an incredible stiffness to the ANET.
I looks now like a rock. Another add on that might be interesting to add in your list is the autobed levelling feature. And thanks for the info! I flipped the metal frame for the heatbed making the belt more level at both ends.
Also, I twisted the belt at the far pulley to reduce noise. I actually did that on both belts. You need to widen the bearings with a washer. This is a great article with a lot of good information. I wanted to give my experience since I took a lot of your suggestions.
I printed the duct Fan, and all of your Anti Vibration and stability upgrades. All these upgrades work great for me and provides add stability. This worked great and the board heats up alot faster. The last thing I did was buy and install the Igus DryLin bearings. I took about 30 mins to take apart the bottom on the printer and install the bearing and it was very straight forward. The bearing were incredible quite but after installing them all my prints came out horrible.
I tried everything and I mean everything to correct the issue changed belt tension, removed parts that were added, lubricate the rails, etc but nothing worked. I finally went back to the original bearings and everything printed great again. This is one upgrade I wish I never did my experience seem unique and I could not find anyone online with this experience. This display can be dimmed for night operations, although it is not uncommon for cautious Marines to cover it entirely with electrical tape, as enemy snipers have been known to zero in on its glow.
Undergoing trial runs with select rifle and recon platoons, the M41AE2 is essentially a standard M41A with the grenade launcher removed and replaced with an 8cm longer, removable barrel, an elongated barrel shroud and a folding bipod.
The E2 is intended to function as a light support weapon, providing greater rates of sustain fire at longer ranges, feeding from an 'L' bend round ammunition clip. Corporal Christopher Winter checking the magazine of his MK2.
The third series of Pulse Rifles and an immediate successor to the M41A. It is slightly smaller than its predecessor, with a corresponding reduced magazine capacity of 40 rounds, but offers up far greater modular and customization options, including various optics, underbarrel attachments, and an extended round magazine.
This version features minor alterations such as new front and rear iron sights to make aiming easier without the use of an auto aiming assist. Problems concerning the weapon's grenade launcher were finalized. The grenades, while doing significant damage to targets on impact, often killing them in a single hit, now have a "shockwave" effect that stuns nearby targets close to its blast radius rather than doing standard fragmentation damage.
While injury at very close range is still high, the survivability of a grenade fired in close quarters is significantly better than what could be expected with earlier models.
This version also fires stronger armor-piercing rounds capable of penetrating the armor of a Praetorian , though a large number of rounds are still needed to kill such a creature thanks to its high endurance. This updated version has an effective range of about five hundred meters, although the underslung 30mm grenade launcher cannot fire accurately beyond one hundred meters. Marines are known to hate the range on the launcher, saying the "sights are for shit".
At close range the weapon can deal serious damage to any target with anything below class VII spidersilk armor. It has a weight of 4. It has different ammunition capacities when using different types of 10mm rounds: As a result, the M1A1 Thompson was adopted as the base weapon, using the larger.
For the filming of Aliens , numerous different props of the M41A were created. There were three or very possibly four live-firing Pulse Rifles used on the production, although only one "hero" weapon had both built-in firearms functional. The remaining rifles were fitted with dummy grenade launcher units. During filming at Pinewood Studios , the Pulse Rifles along with all other live-fire weapons were taken back to Bapty's overnight for secure storage, and while on location at Acton Lane Power Station they were kept in a secure vehicle.
The original color of the Pulse Rifles in Aliens has long been a cause of debate. The props originally used on set were actually painted in Humbrol "Brown Bess", not green as is often erroneously stated although due to on-set lighting, the weapons often appear to be olive green on-screen.
This green has since been accepted as the standard finish and has been replicated in virtually every appearance of the weapon since, with the notable exception of Alien 3 , where the Pulse Rifles carried by Weyland-Yutani Commandos were finished in black although some of these props were later repainted in an olive green for display. After filming on Aliens concluded, the practical firing weapons were broken up, with the exception of the hero prop.
For the third film, the weapons' shrouds were vacformed from black plastic rather than constructed from aluminum; armorer Andrew Fletcher offered to have the weapons painted to match their appearance in Aliens , but the production elected to keep the black coloration. Interestingly, it appears that none of the Pulse Rifles used in Alien 3 are fitted with ammunition counters. This is likely because the additional props made for the film were based on the hero weapon's shroud, which likewise does not feature an LED counter most likely because the electronics simply would not fit inside the prop alongside both live-firing weapons.
When told that this would not be possible, they instead hired Bapty to produce replicas, to be fitted with an electronic strobe- and sound-fire weapon system by a third party. The "Alpha" Pulse Rifle as it looks today. The "Alpha" Pulse Rifle was a non-functional weapon, featuring eight vent holes and an ammo counter on the right side. The prop has gone through some restoration. The "Delta" Pulse Rifle as it looks today.
The "Delta" Pulse Rifle, also known as the dual unit or the "Propstore" Pulse Rifle as it is featured on the Prop Store's website , was the principle live fire now legally de-activated "hero" weapon, the main practical gun used on set, and the only one that featured both built-in firearms the Thompson M1A1 and the Remington functioning.
The weapon features eight barrel vents and lacks the ammo counter on the right-hand side, and is also identifiable by the fact its grenade launcher extends fractionally further at the front of the weapon, to accommodate the working Model within.
The Delta Pulse Rifle was the only functional Pulse Rifle that was not disassembled after the production of Aliens finished.
Sigourney Weaver also used the weapon to fire grenades into the Queen 's Egg sac inside the Hive , although this is only in the brief cuts where the grenade launcher is actually seen being fired an alternate prop is used when the launcher is being pumped.
The weapon returned to the screen in Alien 3 ,  albeit painted black, where it is used by a Weyland-Yutani Commando to shoot Morse in the leg. The weapon is used again later when a Commando guns down Aaron.
As Delta was the only fully functional Pulse Rifle available at the time, it is used in all shots which show a Pulse Rifle firing, of which there are 2. The Delta Pulse Rifle has been repainted many times since its creation, including black for use in Alien 3. Later, the weapon still colored black was hired and further modified with cosmetic additions for use on the cover of the single "Revolution Baby" by UK band Transvision Vamp, where it was held by the lead signer.
Note that the colors of the Zeta Pulse Rifle in this image are slightly different than they are in the book. Described as a "working pulse rifle",  the Zeta Pulse Rifle features eight barrel vents, an ammo counter on the right-hand side, a black sling and wooden pistol grip unlike the guns featured in Aliens , which all featured black synthetic grips.